With the recent attention paid to “the industry” and its pernicious influence on #menswear blogging (which, if you’ll recall, I mentioned as the primary reason I took a blogging hiatus about a month ago [ed. note: not that I’m trying to suggest I’m ahead of the curve… oh wait, no that’s…
Anonymous said: tips on hair products for medium length hair?
Sorry, I wouldn’t know where to start.
We have just released a very important security update for our iPhone and iPad apps addressing an issue that allowed passwords to be compromised in certain circumstances¹. Please download the update now.
If you’ve been using these apps, you should also update your password on Tumblr and…
Just in case you guys haven’t seen it.
If this it tl;dr for you, just go ahead and change your tumblr password if you use an iphone or ipad Tumblr app. And update that app.
wiwtwg said: In response to your answer on raising the armhole when tailoring a shirt, I am curious to know if your solution results in the loss of the felled seam along the sides and underside of the sleeve. I imagine it does based on the description. I tried and (debatably) succeeded in undoing the side and sleeve seams completely and with enough excess fabric in the chest you can redo the armscye by shortening it and bringing in the sleeve to match. But these two methods sound simpler and more successful.
Unfortunately, you do lose the felled seams when you do this, except for a little out of place part of the seam right at the cuff.
However, in my opinion, it’s not something noticeable. I was even going to put “that noticeable” but truly, I’ve not had one person mention it, nor do I even notice when I look at the shirts now. They’re pretty well hidden when you have your arms down.
I find it a minor sacrifice for ease and speed.
Anonymous said: I have dress shirts I want to alter. I am familiar with altering the torso because I have done it before. What i was wondering is if you can tell me how to raise the armhole so I can taper the sleeve well? I've been to a few tailors and they tell me you have to take fabric from the shoulder. The only problem I can't see getting around is if you take off fabric from the shoulder you will raise the buttonholes and it may look wierd. Any way around this?
I’m trying to visualize what the tailors are saying. I think they would want you to undo the sleeve, undo the shoulder seam that leads to the collar, and then create a taper so that you maintain the same general amount of fabric closer to the colllar, but slowly taking up more fabric closer to the shoulder, which would raise the arm hole. I don’t think that would move the buttons too much.
I may be wrong on that.
What I do, generally, is do one continuous stitch, going up the torso of the shirt, around the armhole, and then continuing with the sleeve, all the way down til it tapers off at the cuff. This raises the armholes while remaining equal to the sleeves, without having to detach anything.
ricky-fitts said: Do you have any tips on thrifting? Like what days to go or how to find the best thrift stores in your area or anything like that?
It’s kind of hard to predict the best days, because each store will be different. I find that Thursdays are pretty good, because they are stocked up but haven’t been hit with the weekend rush. Some of my cooler finds were on the weekdays. If your area is anything like mine, the weekends after say 12 will get just bum rushed with people.
It’s much more about going often than on specific days. If you can hit 5-10 thrift stores weekly, then you have a much better chance of finding some incredible buys than you do going once a month.
http://www.thethriftshopper.com/ will give you a good idea of where you can find thrift stores in your area. I would first try to figure out what you want to find, and kind of allow that to dictate your shopping. For instance, I wear smaller sizes for mens clothing than the average person wears, so I have a much smaller selection to choose from. Because of that, I tend to go for the bigger “chain” stores (Goodwills, Value Village, Salvation Army) than the mom-and-pop stores because simply speaking, the more volume means the more chance I can find anything I like. That said, I’ve heard of some MAJOR scores at the smaller thrift shops simply because less people frequent them.
I’d suggest spending a weekend or two really scouting out all the thrift stores in your area. You can develop a route that expedites the process. I have a few routes so I know which stores to hit in a certain area. Once you’ve hit each store a few times, you’ll definitely see a pattern emerging. Sometimes, a store’s product will be dictated by the neighborhood so a nicer neighborhood will have nicer stuff. Other times, they get their goods from a central processing plant so it can actually pay to go places that aren’t frequented as often. I have stores that I go to almost exclusively for shoes, some places for furniture or tools, etc. because I’ve learned the neighborhood and what type of donations the places get.
I actually have a few articles up about thrifting. Here’s a link to start with: http://survivalofthefittist.com/tagged/thrifting/page/2
I actually started with page 2 so you can work your way backwards. My buddy over at AFistfulofStyle has some incredible articles about thrifting as well: http://afistfulofstyle.tumblr.com/manifesto
Really, the best piece of advice I can give you is to go as often as you can and keep an open mind. If you look around enough, you’re going to find something pretty amazing.
wildericman said: Do you ever get anything at thrift stores? If so, what do you look for?
I’d say probably 95% of my wardrobe is thrifted, as well as a lot of little knicknacks like a vintage sewing machine, old Raleigh 3-speed bicycles from the 60s, an old Smith Corona typewriter, and a ton of other stuff.
At this point, I’ve pretty much have all the staples I need so I either look for upgrades (switching out Allen Edmonds tassel loafers for Aldens) or niche items that I like (patchwork madras pants). Unfortunately, moving away from staples means I have less chance of finding something I’m “looking” for, but it’s always a fun little adventure.
I decided to cull my shoe collection recently. Some didn’t fit my personality anymore, and some weren’t really the right size, so I decided to go ahead and put them up on ebay.
Click here for the auctions
There’s some Allen Edmonds, Aldens, and a pair of Church’s dub monks up for auction.
Sizing’s a bit all over the place, so if you’re 8 1/2-11, check it out!
You’re looking at it. The outfit to beat this summer.